Surfs Up

I've lived in Cali for along time never really really truly wanted to surf...I mean there was a moment or two where I thought cool I wanna try. Well my new roomie Jamie wanted to learn how to surf..so I was like sure why not. Ok not as easy as it may look ppl. Well after finding myself scared half to death by what's in the water and the big ass waves crashing around me...I gave up. lol Jamie bough a surf board b/c she is determined to learn how and do it and I got a body board and started to get in one with the waves. A few weeks later..now at present time..we went out again and I had a blast! When your out there and the waves look massive and you hesitate..well those r the ones you wanna ride. Ok best way to do it is stand (if you can) and push off just get in right before it all crashed and turns into white wash. Well yesterday was great! Perfect water..it wasn't even cold and the waves were nice( not thrashing u around) and I caught a lot of nice big waves that drove me in all the way on shore. To you who is reading this..if you ever do try it and ur in the middle/top of the wave stick out ur arms and ride it like superman...its AWESOME!!